July 22, continued

On Sunday we had a day trip to Vellore, where we saw a huge fort from the 1600s. It was a fast day but I survived...until we got back to Kanchi and I got hungry.

We travelled to Vellore by way of a highway-the first one I've seen here! And in Vellore, we saw trafffic lights-also the first ones I've seen here!

After walking on ther amparts all the way around the HUGE fort, we went to the market across the street. However, it was so disgusting that Leah, Steve, Abby, Brooke, Melissa, and I went back and paddleboated in the sun for 25 minutes or so. It was very relaxing.

After we got back and had a late lunch, we had a long break. There was a huge storm, and I stood on our balcony under the overhang and watched the rain pour down, right in front of me. I could see it drenching the neighborhood, and it was absolutely beautiful. After it stopped, we headed into town, attempting to dodge all the huge puddles and lakes that had formed. It took a while to find a share-auto (kind of like a sherut/bus), but we finally got into town. At Googly, I talked to Gabe Seed via gchat, who told about how things were going at camp. It was depressing to think about how life at Nyack is going on without me, even though I know my summer here in India is something that will benefit me in so many ways more than a summer at camp ever could.

After some quick grocery shopping, we tried to find some rickshaws to take us back. In the midst of all of this, Steve was hit by a motorcycle. He didn't fall, just kind of wobbled and staggered off balance, but it was an incredibly scary thing to witness so close. He only hurt his knee-it could have been a lot worse. 

Yesterday at work was a very fulfilling day. I gave it my all, trying to make up for being sick last week. We got a lot accomplished, and Ic hallenged myself successfully in some new tasks. Before coming ehre, I could have enver stood on top of a wobbly brick pile 4 feet high and lifted up heavy bricks, cement, and water to the height of a few feet above my head with nothing to support me. But I did! All morning long!

Yesterday afternoon we had a session about development, which was very interesting, and helped me understand a lot more about the basics.

Then at dinner, we had a dish with soy balls which was amazing. 

Today at work was a continuation of yesterday's work, which continued to be very satisfying. The upper walls are almost done!

July 22, 2008

So updating these journal hasn't been my top priority lately. In an attempt to record everything that's happened in the past two weeks, there won't be too much detail. 

Two weekends ago we went on a trip to Pondicherry. We took an Indian bus and luckily got seats before a few dozen people started cramming the aisles. Halfway there, Michele, Adam, and I jumped off the bus for a quick bathroom break, hoping the bus wouldn't leave without us. B"h, it didn't.

Once we got to Pondi, we dropped our stuff off at our beautiful guesthouse on Rue Dumas, right near the ocean. We headed to Auroville, and on the way stopped at a French bakery for pasteries!, where we watched a video about the Matrimander, Sri Aurobindo, and the Mother. Then we took what was supposed to be a ten minute walk, but really twenty, in the heat to this huge dome shaped meditation hall which is covered in gold petal-like things. We couldn't go inside because it was the wrong time, so we chilled on the grass for a while. After walking back we had a bit of shopping time in the visitor's area.

After a very exciting rickshaw ride (the driver let Steve drive!), we had lunch at a hotel's restauraunt. Then some of us went grocery shopping and I was very excited to see tofu! Then Michele, Darren, and I walked around. We went to a few stores, including FabIndia (where everything was expernsive and didn't fit right) , and then to an internet place.

Back at the guesthouse, we prepped for Shabbat and did Kabbalat Shabbat and Ma'ariv on our rooftop balcony overlooking the Bay of Bengal. Micah taught us how to do chanting for Adon Olam, which was slightly uncomfortable but very interesting.

We ate dinner (from the same place we had lunch), then some people went to a bar. The rest of us walked along the beach. 

On Saturday, those of us who were Shomer Shabbat relaxed at the guesthouse, while others went out. I had an ayurvedic massage (scheduled and paid for on Friday) at a place down the street. Let's just say, it's one of those things you do once, and it's fine, but never again.

After Havdalah on the roof, the group went to a non-veg place for dinner, and Menachem, Shani, Michele, and I were on our own. After many frustrating obstacles, we found a pure-veg place to eat, and then mut up with the group at Rendzevous. 

Sunday morning some of us went to a temple where, for a couple of rupees, an elephant blessed us by tapping us on the head with his trunk. It was a really cool thing to see. The elephant even had a sense of humor, and tapped a few passerbys on the butt.

Abby and I walked over to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, which was right near the elephant, and meditated for a little while.

We then went to Kasha Ki Aasha for brunch with the group but it was closed. A group of us girls went to Le Cafe on the beach for brunch instead. Then we shopped a bit. 

When we went to the bus station to leave, we found out that our bus wasn't for a few hours. Ygal, Leah, and I went back to town for shopping, then wadered for a while to find coffee.com. Back at the bus station we found out that our bus to Kanchi had been cancelled, so we took a bus to Tindavam? Trivandrum? (?) There we wandered through a filthy market and across railroad tracks to find a bus to Kanchi. The bus was crowded and uncomfortable, and I was very claustrophobic. It was a relief to arrive in Kanchi a couple of hours later. 

On Tuesday I woke up sick, and couldn't work. I spent all of Tuesday, most of Weds., and some of Thurs and Fri in bed at the worksite. It was difficult to know that everyone else was working hard and that all I could do was lie in bed.

We had a few village and temple visits, each of which is getting harder and harder to differentiate in my mind.

Friday night Yael and Brooke led a wonderful KabShab and Ma'ariv. Before candle-lighting we each had to write down things we'd learned in the past 3 weeks on pieces of paper. Then, during services, we picked random ones out of a hat and read them out loud. Many of them were very meaningful and inspiring, and made me think a lot.

Dinner and singing afterwards were quite nice. I'm glad our group has been able to bridge many different styles of Judaism in a way that creates a meaingful Shabbat experience for everyone. We do most traditional things, but with some added flair, such as Steve's Shabbos Rap. And due to lack of grape juice/wine, and challah we use mango juice, and matzah we brought from America.

Saturday was very relaxing. I read a lot in a book called "In Spite of the Gods," which discussed some of India's challenges for the 21st century. I learned a lot, but also discovered how little I truly know about politics, economics, society, culture, and history here. This ignorance somewhat embarrasses me, but I am making every possible attempt to learn more about this fascinating country.

Final part of July 7th.

Our bus ride back was full of rain, scary driving, speed bumps, and haikus. After dinner I got almost 8.5 hours of sleep. It was a great day.

July 7th continued, and summer goal's list.

I suppose I should put down these somewhat arbitrary goals of mine:

(Excerpt of goals below, edited. Also, accomplishments noted were written later. Those in italics I just added now.)

Sunbathe on the beach next to a cow-DONE.

Touch the Bay of Bengal-DONE.

Touch the Indian Ocean. -Couldn't happen, our later trip to Cochin, on the Indian Ocean, was canceled.

Ride an elephant-DONE. Not recorded in my journal, but happened in a temple in Kanchipuram on one of the very last days of the trip. The elephant tried to kidnap me. No kidding.

Have an elephant bless me with a tap on the head-DONE. In Pondicherry. And Kanchipuram to, I think? Oh yes, it did. And it got snot all over me. Elephant snot is not a pleasant thing.

Successfully wear a sari.-DONE. Yeah, not to Indian standards, but my American standards are close enough.

Avoid malaria/dengue fever/assorted nasty illnesses.-DONE.

Get killer muscles.-DONE.

Examine how I relate to others.-DONE.

Make amazing friends.-DONE.

Learn how to not judge others.-DONE.

Absorb and assimilate into the culture as much as I can.-DONE.

Become less sympathetic to cows. (???)

Watch/play/understand cricket.-From balcony of building. Yeah, questionable. Looking back, I can't tell you anything about cricket even though I watched it.

See a movie (Bollywood or otherwise).-Yes! Right before leaving India, we saw "Wanted," in Chennai. Then on the plane I actually saw a Bollywood film-Shaadi No. 1--amazing!

Understand major issues of international development.-DONE.

Learn about India's history.-DONE.

Get used to the food.-LOVE IT!

Not close myself off from experiences.-DONE.

Build a structure of meaning.-DONE.

Create meaningful relationships.-DONE.

Make a difference in  a place I'll most likely never come back to.-DONE.

Learn more about Hinduism.-DONE.

Learn basic Tamil.-Define "basic"...

...to be continued. (Except I don't think it was.)

Monday, July 7, 2008

So much has happened since I last wrote, and there's no way I can write it all.

Last week was our first week of work and we quickly settled into a routine. We wake up at 4:30 am, meet for tea/coffee, which Britto serves at 5, and are gone by 5:15. We are at the worksite and working by 6 am. Around 7:30 am or so we have breakfast, shmy around, and then work until around 11, when we have tea/coffee, and biscuits. Then we return to RIDE for lunch.

The tasks are usually pretty much the same, but there's always a surprise or two. Today we leveled dirt into the part of the school which will be the foundation. Robyn, Leah, and I also painted a bed with white primer-for sick kids we guess?

While some of the tasks are repetitive, I really enjoy being outside and using my body. Being active is really nice, and my muscles are becoming more toned. The workpants that were too tight on me when I bought them are getting loose. 

After lunch we usually have either rest/session, or session/town, or something like that. Then dinner, and we go to bed around 8:30/9 pm...because getting up at 4:30 am cannot be accomplished with late nights.

July 3rd (Thursday), Jeyaraj took us to see this play/performance in a nearby village. It was in Tamil, and was about child labor. There were loud drums, wild dancing, crazy acrobatic tricks involved needles, knives, rupee bills, and pieces of fruit. It was an amazing experience, but I didn't have my camera with, so I'll have to steal someone else's pictures. 

Nothing out of the ordinary happened on 4th of July, but we did sing "American Pie" at Shabbat dinner. Oh, and there was ketchup (for the Indian noodles??).

Yesterday we went to Mamallapuram, about 90 min from Kanchipuram. We had a wonderful guide. We first went to this area with lots of incredible rock carvings and this huge rock balanced on the edge of a rock face. It's called Krishna's Butterball, and is from a story where Lord Krishna, as a young boy ran from house to house stealing butter to create one large ball of butter. 

Next we went to another area of rock carvings where there were also large life-size carvings of free-standing animals. It is amazing to think about how much work creating these masterpieces must have been. Also, they've been there for thousands of years too!

Then we went to the Shore Temple, which was created out of smaller (but still big!) pieces of rock, which were carved and brought there by elephant. The Shore Temple is on a piece of land that juts out between two beaches. There is a huge wall of rocks in front of it, which ended up protecting the temple when the tusnami hit in December of 2004. The temple was saved, but the land on each side of it was devastated.

We did some trinket-y shopping in the area then went to a hotel restauraunt called the Golden Palate for an Indian buffet lunch. Then we went to a resort-y area near the beach to swim in the pool. First though, we went into the area of town next to it, which was a backpacker-y area. In the internet cafe we went to, I saw a stack of Hebrew books, including one called "Shokolat." After some internet time, Emily and I went shopping for clothes in the area. I bought awesome pinky-orange fisherman's pants (which I'm wearing now!). Then we bumped into Lilach and Shani and kept shopping with them. 

Back at the resort, I swam and read. I walked down to the beach by myself for a bit. It was nice to be alone and think. I saw the fishermen pulling in the catch of the day, and saw some cows grazing. While one of my goals for the summer (sunbathe on the beach next to a cow) has not quite been accomplished, I feel that my experience yesterday comes close enough.

Continued July 3, 2008

Bridge schools=short-term, getting kids out of work and into regular schools.

Primary=poor kids. One was burned down in 1985 by rich people.

In 1995, people tried to murder Jeyaraj. He spent a month in the hospital and was subsequently arrested because of it.

 

Someone put five liters of a drug into an SHG person's home as blackmail. RIDE got him 2 years in jail. 

RIDE is now powerful and revered in Kanchipuram. They work in 95 villages around the district.

They are creating a "silent revolution" by educating people. 

The Indian government spends $ on _____ and military, while people are eating one meal a day.

 

"She was like me"-transfer of culture identity. 

Women are selling themselves for next to nothing, less than 5 rupees. They have no knowledge of condoms---> rampant HIV/AIDS.

 

"Human is first, helping others without any expectation of return is a top human quality."

Jeyaraj has had a "good experience with Jewish people so far." "The building is a symbol of American Jewish community."

July 2, 2008, continued

Notes on RIDE: (from Y'gal's journal):

 

Jeyaraj started it in 1984. He had been a teacher and journalist for a Catholic magazine which served many countries. He was a union employee and started an agricultural union. He was threatened with arrest by corrupt police.

RIDE started to deal with poverty and caste segregation problems. 1997 was when they first started dealing with child labor. An English man came and did a study with RIDE about child labor and presented it to UNICEF; At that time, RIDE was working with AJWS on helping to end child labor. 

 

Jeyaraj was the first person in his village to graduate from both high school, and college, and to receive an MA. He started the first democratic voting in his village, and the first NGO in Kanchipuram. Now there are over 3000 NGOs in Tamil Nadu. The government "treats NGOs like slaves" and it's very difficult to work with them, however the government of Tamil Nadu is a funder of RIDE (about 5%). 

There's a lot of inequality and some female staff are occasionally beaten by their husbands. Dowries are a big issue in India and there are women that cannot marry because they cannot afford a dowry. RIDE has self-help groups (SHGs) for women, to help them become mroe independent and self-reliant. They provide microloans along with training courses in different areas. "Money is not only life." Money is only one tool. RIDE is clear that along with money, people must understand what develop-ment is, and the importance of using the money correctly. "Capacity building," "mindset," there's leadership training, behavioral training, marketing training, business training-"train the people to train themselves." 

 

RIDE, sometimes by force, takes children out of factories and puts them into schoo. RIDE would go to child labor factory owners and try to convince them to stop, if they wouldn't, they brought court  orders and legal notices, would publicize child labor in factories, get the kids out of work and into school.

100,000 rupees=1 lakh

100 lakh=1 crore

optimal budge of RIDE by lakh (?)

There's resistance in the community. Jeyaraj and his wife Britto have been cursed at. A lady who once cursed Jeyaraj eventually died, somewhat tragically, and a religious leader said it was because she crossed Jeyaraj. 

 

Someone told him he shouldn't construct toilets at the Arpakam school. The same guy (the president of Arpakam?) told him to pay 50,000 INR to build the school. Jeyaraj went to the chief minister of Chennai, who couldn't help. He eventually paid the the 50,000 INR. The man subsequently had a heart attack and can't work.

Indian government is 75% corrupt.

 

People create rumors against RIDE. 

RIDE has three kinds of schools: Night, Bridge, and Primary. 

July 2, 2008

Abby just told me that today was July 2nd-I had no idea! I didn't think that it was July yet, and I had no idea that the 4th of July is day after tomorrow. Time passes in a very odd way in this country. 

 

So as for the past few days: Friday we went to the worksite to check it out. Robyn and I rode with Adam in Jeyaraj's car because there wasn't enough room on the bus. We kept stopping at gas stations on the way, but it was only until yesterday that I understood why. (It's coming...) We also stopped at this beautiful lily pond that has steps built down into it on four sides. Jeyaraj explained some sort of Hindu worship or tradition relating to it that I don't remember. He also pointed out where some people were buried...however, I didn't see a cemetary, just some land. 

When we got to the worksite, all the little kids at the school there ran out and were very excited to see us. They shook our hands, running around as they attempted to shake as many white peopels' hands as possible. Robyn and I taught them how to high-five us. Then Jeyaraj showed us the complex. There is a small school building, a stage about one foot high, attached to a toolshed/room. We are building next to that. At the back of the property is the training center, with a few different rooms. There are beautiful trees all around, including two "Alexis" trees, planted by Alexis Kort (AJWS). 

 

After visiting the site, we drove back and stopped in town. After some quick time at Googly (internet cafe) and the grocery store, we went back to RIDE. We finished Shabbat planning, and a few hours later, started Shabbat with Kabbalat Shabbat and Ma'ariv (sort of). During Ma'ariv the power went out but came on again a few minutes later. During the Shema I watched a gecko eat a fly on the wall. Only b'hodu (in India). For dinner we made Kiddish over 7-Up and Hamotzi over matzah. After singing songs we went to bed. 

The next day, yom shabbat, consisted of individual davening, and hanging out, and a session where we shared some of the more profound moments, especially relating to Jewish identity, in our lives. Some were sad, some were happy, some in between, but each made me feel like I knew the members of our group a lot better. 

 

Before the session, during lunch, I bit into something, most likely a hot pepper, and had a reaction. Water, tea, bananas, and coconut water drunk straight out of the cocnonut with a straw did the trick. Also, the bananas here are amazing. 

On Sunday we went to three of Kanchipuram's temples. Only 997 left to go. (Actually, 1,000 was in its heyday, there are fewer temples now.) The first one was on the outskirts of the city, and was beautiful but very understated. It was called __________, and I believe the rock it was made of is limestone. It was rectangular, and in the center was the sanctum, which is only accessible to Hindus. In the outside there were little meditation chambers built into the wall. I enjoyed it a lot because it was small, architectually appealing, quiet, and very empty. 

 

The second temple we went to, Sri Ekambaranathar Temple was pretty much the opposite. It was huge! There were a lot of people and noise. There were sculptures and shrines everywhere. Inside there was a group of maybe 30-40 people, mostly women, sitting, constantly singing.

For a ten rupee donation I walked around this chamber, got a smudge of powder on my forehead and received a blessing from an old, half-naked guy. In a courtyard next to that was a famed mango tree that offers various kinds of blessings. Supposedly, each of the tree's four branches yields a different tasting fruit. 

After the second temple, we went to town again ecause the third temple we were supposed to go to was closed for its afternoon "siesta." In town we went back to Googly and the grocery store. After lunch and a rest we headed back to the temple that we had missed earlier, the Sri Devaraja Swamy Temple. This temple was medium in size, and I liked it, but I was really tired. At the end we chilled around a huge, gross green pool. We walked back to RIDE, and saw some monkeys on the way.

 

On Monday we started working. Most of what we're doing is pretty fun, and it's nice to be outside, even though it's really hot. It's also great to be able to interact with the workers there as we teach each other Tamil and English words related to what we're doing. We started off the day with a poojah, where the Indian workers did blessings with coconut, colored powders, and some leaves. We responded with a bracha and a song. we sihed that the building we were building would be one of knowledge, learning, success, and derech eretz. 

That afternoon we met with Jeyaraj to discuss RIDE more in general. 

June 27, 2008

It's been almost a week since Volunteer Summer has started. Orientation in New York was composed of sessions about AJWS, India, the developing world, health & safety, and teambuilders-as well as plenty of time to play in Manhattan!

We boarded an 11 pm Emirates flight to Dubai and then after just a few minutes to explore the Dubai airport, we boarded our flight to Chennai. Shani, Menachem, Leah and I were all upgraded to business class, which was wonderful!

Sand dunes of the UAE

The Chennai airport was my first clue that maybe not everything would be as I expected. The airport was run down, and outside were lots of pushy, smelly Indians, as well as trash everywhere. We shoved ourselves into a RIDE bus/van, and set out for Kanchipuram. The roads were insane, and I definitely doubted my survival a few times. There were skinny, malnourished cows eating garbage, dogs everywhere, people wearing barely anything, people carrying large containers on top of their heads, bikes, motorcycles, rickshaws, cars, vans, and many trucks and buses. 

Along the road were examples of poverty that are nothing compared to a homeless man sitting on a street corner at home. While I'm obviously here to make a difference, I've realized that I'm going to have to harden my heart somewhat just so that I don't have an emotional breakdown. 

In Kanchi, we settled into our rooms-mine being on the top (4th) floor, and had breakfast. We met Jeyaraj and Britto, Sister Shanti (for some reason my journal says "Sister Josephine?") and some others whose names I don't remember. After resting for a bit, we had a session and then lunch. We then discussed Shabbat. Then we went to the town of Kanchi to withdraw money, and get clothes made for us ast one of the silk shops. Then we went to some sort of RIDE ceremony all in Tamil, and I kept falling asleep. When we returned, we ate dinner and immediately went to sleep.

"Downtown" Kanchipuram

Now it's almost 7 am, and breakfast isn't until 9:30. I'm sitting outside on the "porch," and I can see part of the neighborhood around and below me. There are palm trees and the sun is already shining bright. I can see a clearing off to my right and houses to my left. I hear noises-birds? Monkeys? A chipmunk crawls up to three white birds on the rooftop across from me. Good morning India. Please give me the experience I'm looking for, with maybe a few (pleasant) suprises along the way.

 The 'hood

June 22, 2008

Cleveland Hopkins Int'l Airport: 

And I'm off...